CHAPTER III

Activities during the year 2004-2005

Achievements of Chemical Processing Laboratory:

I Enzyme oriented solutions in eco-friendly processing for:

(Jointly with Advance Bio Chem and Biocon)

Wool Scouring/Bleaching/Dyeing/Finishing

Degumming/dyeing of Silk

Dyeing of natural fibre blends of wool, silk & cotton.

II Methods to improve dyeing

Wool, in the application of chrome dyes

Wool/cotton single bath process for solid shades

Particulars of on-going Research Projects :

1. Wool / Silk Projects jointly with Central Silk Board

a. Developing Quality Spun yarn on Eri silk / wool blend and its products

Under the project small trials were conducted and 2/60^s spun yarn (eri silk/ wool blended spun yarn) are developed on worsted spinning machinery and more trials for spinning 2/60^s and 2/90^s spun yarn of eri silk, wool and polyester are under progress. Quality parameters of these blends are being studied. Details being :

Sr No.	Count	Composition
		Silk	Wool	Polyester
1.	2/60^s Nm yarn	25	75	-
2.	2/90^s Nm yarn	20	25	55
3.	2/60^s Nm yarn	50	50	-

Physical & Chemical tests for finding out characteristics of different silks and specially eri silk for its distinct properties to blend with wool and polyester were studied and appropriate compositions for eri silk blends were studied. A preliminary assessment of dyeing of silk varieties with acid milling, Sandalon Red 10B dye at 0.5 and 3% level has revealed that eri silk produces somewhat non-uniform dyeing effect under similar conditions as compared to mulberry, muga and tassar. They may call for incorporation of additional auxiliaries or dye-bath conditions. Mulberry, tassar, muga and eri are the order of preference for good dyeing yields.

b. To develop suitable machinery for spinning of Eri silk and its blends for cottage industry

Under the project, selection of appropriate machinery right from cocoon opener, cutter, carding, gill box, comber and drawframe, roving, spinning and twisting is in progress and eri silk performance on these machines is being evaluated during the trials. Modifications required for cocoon opener, cutter and hand spinning frame to make it more productive are under scrutiny.

2. Deccani Wool Project

Fibre characteristic of Chelkere farm wool samples (4 Nos) and those around Ranebennur (3 Nos) comprising of Deccani breed (white & black), crossbreed and exotic Rambauillet has been evaluated. All samples collected from Guttal are finer in average diameter and SD values compared to those of Chellkere. Clean fibre content and yield varies from 57% to 89%. Ash and vegetable matter content is more in Chellkere samples.

List of machineries and their specifications are being finalised and sent to KSWDC for incorporation and preparation of tender documents as per the work plan activity. A letter has been sent to KSWDC for arrangement of collection of freshly shorn wool samples from different areas of Karnataka alongwith the processed products presently made out of Deccani wool for further evaluation and study on value addition. A proposal for initiating R&D work on development of value addition products using Deccani wool at WRA labs to be incorporated for the work to be undertaken during Phase II activities out of the sanctioned money for Phase I activities released to KSWDC for its concurrence and onward recommendation for sanction from CWDB.

3. Bhuttico Project

As per the directive of CWDB the project report on setting up of dyeing and finishing centre for shawls at Bhuttico in Kullu for which WRA has been assigned the role of consulting agency, alongwith the details of machineries has been submitted. Finalisation of the list is subject to further consultation with Bhuttico and CWDB for a meeting is to be organised in the near future.

Small samples of the products from Bhuttico have been earlier analysed for the construction parameters and some evaluation on compacting finish.

4. Khadi Village Industries Commission:

The aim of the project was to use Indian fine crossbreed wool from Jammu & Kashmir state for manufacturing of shawls and lohies. We have tried to spin yarn of 24Nm from 100% J&K fine wool. However, due to short fibre length 43 mm of the wool couldn’t be hand spun on the charkha for the required count. Hence a blend of Australian merino wool (24 microns 64 mm AFL) & fine crossbreed wool from J&K (23.8 micron, 43 mm length) in a composition of 65:35 was used to make a yarn of count 1/27 and 2/27. Shawls were developed from this blended yarn and after finishing the fabric is showing very good feel and luster and other characteristics required for a shawl.

1. Pashmina Project

UNDP (GOI) project sponsored through CWDB, which is facing some processing problems after commissioning of the machinery at Leh. Proposal for “Changing technology and additions to scouring-drying m/cs in pashmina Dehairing plant at Leh for optimal functioning” was submitted. Necessary permission for modifications / additions in the processing line-up has been received from the sponsoring authorities. Order placed for the extension of the machines with M/s Tirupathi Machines Pvt. Ltd, Bikaner.

The Boilers have been commissioned properly except the motor, which is to be rewound and fixed on the 2^nd Boiler. The 2 Carding machines sent to Leh would be commissioned during the upgradation of the machine.

INDUSTRIAL CONSULTANCY/ INDUSTRIAL VISITS

Wool Research Association’s Representation on Bureau of Indian Standards

The competent authority of Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi accepted the registration of two Scientist of WRA namely Mr. P.R. Kulkarni and Mr. S.V. Bhalerao as an expert for Quality Management Systems Audit under BIS Quality System Certification Scheme in Textile and Textile Product sector.

Wool Research Association’s Representation on Karnataka Sheep and Wool Development Corporation Ltd., Bangalore

As per the recommendation of Central Wool Development Board, Jodhpur, WRA deputed Mr. S.V. Bhalerao – Sr. Scientific Officer on 7^th & 8^th April, 2004 for the tender opening and scrutiny committee for the purchase of Mini Wool Scouring

Presentation of R&D Projects at TXC Office

The Scientists and Staff members of WRA prepared and presented 6 R&D projects on different topics. Presentation was at the Office of the Textile Commissioner on 15^th and 16^th June, 2004. The projects were evaluated and assessed by the Experts Committee including the Textile Commissioner and Professor of IIT, New Delhi.

Visit to Bhutti Weavers Co-op. Soc. Ltd., Kullu

Mr.T.R. Rao visited to Bhutti Weavers Co-operative Society Ltd., Kullu from 19^th to 21^st July, 2004 for providing consultancy in connection with the project for Setting up of Finishing and Dyeing Unit as per instruction of Ministry of Textiles.

Visit to LAHDC, LEH

Mr. P.R. Kulkarni’s Sr. Scientist of WRA visited LAHDC, Leh in connection with Pashmina Development Project from 21^st July, 2004

Survey / Cluster Study at Ludhiana & Amritsar.

Under the Integrated Wool Improvement Programme initiated by Ministry of Textiles, Government of India., Wool Research Association on behalf of M/s Woolmark Services Pvt. Ltd, New Delhi conducted the Survey/ Cluster sturdy for Knitwear & Shawl Sector at Ludhiana and Shawl Sector at Amritsar of total 25 units.

TEAM-3 Presentation

The presentation on the topic “TEAM-3 ” formula was arranged at the office of he Indian Woollen Mills Federation, Mumbai on 21^st October, 2004 at 2.00 p.m. Mr. Georg Beilharz, General Manager Laboratory Operations & Mr. Jim Marler, National Technical Advisor from the Australian Wool Testing Authority (AWTA), Australia gave the presentation. WRA staff alongwith other Woolen Industries people attended this presentation.

Visit to The British India Corporation, Kanpur

In connection with the consultancy being provided to M/s BIC Ltd, Kanpur, a team from WRA visited them from 17^th to 24^th June, 2004 & 24^th October to 2^nd November,2004

Mr. S.C. Agarwal, Director, WRA attended the meeting of Board of Director’s of The British India Corporation Ltd. at Ministry of Textiles, New Delhi. The WRA report was discussed at length and appreciated. He has been asked to go into the present status of modernization for revival of BIC and give his recommendations in about a month’s time.

WRA is associated with different types of assignments & giving the consultancy to M/s. British India Corpn. Kanpur for their two units – Cawnpore Woollen Mills, Kanpur & New Egerton Woolllen Mills, Dhariwal. In the month of Jan. & Feb. 2005, Director, WRA with scientists visited both the units.

EDUCATIONAL ACTIVITIES

WRA filed Application at Maharashtra State Board of Technical Education, Mumbai

In continuation with the earlier efforts in framing curriculum for two PG Diploma Full Time (1 year duration) courses namely :

Post Graduate Diploma in Wool Textile Technology.

Post Graduate Diploma in Ecological & Instrumental Chemical Analysis.

WRA filed application form for the recognition of the above two courses on 6^th April, 2004 at the Office of the Joint Director, Maharashtra State Board of Technical Education, Bandra, Mumbai

Training at Wool Research Association on Quality Control and Testing of Pashmina

Duration – 13^th April, 2004 to 30^th April, 2004

A training course was conducted for 3 persons comprising of 1 – Field Officer and 2- Field Supervisor from Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh for their activity for Pashmina as a Common Facility Centre which will be started in the middle of June, 2004 or July, 2004. During the course period the mill visit was arranged and the field trial on shop floor was completed. The training was given for identification of Animal hair especially Pashmina, Angora, Camel, etc. They were trained on Projection Microscope as well as were given introduction of new technology such as OFDA for diameter analysis. They have been trained on measurement of single fibre length in pashmina. They were awarded certificates for completion of the training by Director, Mr. S.C. Agarwal.

Wool Research Association is starting Post Graduate Diploma Course in Wool Textile Technology recognised by Directorate of Technical Education, Maharashtra State, Mumbai to be able to provide suitable technical hands to the Woolen Industry. It is about 8 months full time course and very comprehensive and includes modern technology.

WRA’s interaction with SNDT University

Students from SVT College of Home Science (SNDT) University, Mumbai visited Wool Research Association under the partial fulfillment of their academic activity. The orientation programme was organised by the Scientist and staff members of WRA to develop the awareness and introducing aspects of two main areas viz. Textile Testing Laboratory and National Eco Testing Laboratory. The orientation programme was conducted on 30^th June, 2004.

MEETINGS, SEMINARS, WORKSHOPS & CONFERENCE ATTENDED

Director attended various meetings at Ministry of Textiles held under the Chairmanship of Joint Secretary (Wool) & Secretary (Textiles).

SDC Seminar attended :

SDC Seminar on Light Fastness and Weathering at SASMIRA on 23/4/2004 from 15.30 – 18.00 hours by Dr. C.W. Acharya

Conference attended :

Mr. S.C. Agarwal & Mr. T.R. Rao attended one-day conference on “Reactive Dyes – Future Trends” on the occasion of its Golden Jubilee. It was held on 12^th June, 2004 at Hotel International The Grand, Mumbai. It was widely attended and addressed by Foreign Experts.

Mrs. Sonia Gandhi inaugurated the Pashmina Dehairing Plant

The Pashmina Dehairing Plant is established by the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council (LAHDC) with the technical consultation of Wool Research Association, Thane. Mrs. Sonia Gandhi, Chairperson, National Advisory Council, inaugurated the plant on 30^th Sept., 2004. The Scientists of WRA were present for the inauguration.

Workshop on Natural Dyes

A workshop was organised on Natural Dyes at Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh) on 20^th & 21^st November, 2004 by Wool Research Association and sponsored by APCTT, New Delhi to encourage the local artisans in the art and use of natural sources for extraction and application of colouring matters on textiles and woolen products like carpet & knitting yarn.

Bureau of Indian Standards Meeting – TX-05

Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi called the 11^th meeting of Chemical Method of Test (Sectional Committee – TX-05) on 7^th December, 2004 at Mumbai. Mrs. G.P. Rane, Deputy Director represented WRA for the same.

Jute Diversified Products Workshop at Yerwada Jail, Pune

WRA was involved in UNDP Jute Programme in past and transfer the technology by conducting various seminars and workshop at different corners of India like Amritsar, Solapur, Dharwad, Nagpur and Mumbai. Now, WRA knocked the door of Yerwada Jail, Pune and the workshop on “Jute Diversified Products” was organised at the said venue in collaboration with NCJD, New Delhi from 20^th December, 2004 to 31^st December, 2004.

The event was inaugurated by Mr. Vijay Bendre, Supt. of Yerwada Jail, Pune. Mr.Kishan Singh Ghugtyal, NCJD, New Delhi, Mr. M.V. Wamane, Supt. (Ind.) Jail, Pune were also the dignitaries on Dais. The workshop was effectively conducted by the technical staff of WRA for different subjects like JDP, Handicrafts, Spinning, Bleaching, Dyeing, Printing etc.

Mr. D.J. Chaudhary, D.I.G. (Prisons), Pune was present for the concluding ceremony of the workshop. The participants from different district Jail of Maharashtra State were awarded by the certificate. Mr. P.R. Kulkarni organised the event successfully under the guidance of Director, WRA and with the help of technical staff of WRA.

Exhibition, Conference, Attended

The end of the year 2004 witnessed the different event like exhibition, workshops, seminars etc. Indian Textile Machinery Exhibition was organised at Mumbai, which was the unique opportunity to acquire the knowledge of the current status of technology. WRA staff was visited the exhibition for different subjects.

Mr. S.V. Bhalerao attended the AITC conference in Mumbai on 5^th/6^th December, 2004.

ISO Certification updation to 2000 version

BVQI (India) Pvt. Ltd., the independent certification body of Bureau Veritas audited WRA Quality Management System for the certification of ISO 9001: 2000. WRA received the certificates alongwith relevant logo of following BVQI certification Marks with effect from October, 2004.

1.    BVQI/UKAS (SIO 9001:2000) - (United Kingdom Accreditation Services)

1. BVQI/NABCB (ISO 9001:2000) – (National Accreditation Board of Certifying

Bodies)

3.    BVQI/RAB (ISO 9001:2000) – (American Nation Accreditation Body)

The scope of the certificate covers “Testing of wool & other Textile related raw materials, intermediates and products”.

NABL Accreditation of Textile Testing Methods :

The following instruments were procured to upgrade the Textile Laboratory which are required for NABL Accreditation :

- Spectra Vision Colour Matching Cabinet

- Crockmeter New Hand Driven

- Hot Air Oven (Temp.upto 250^oC)

- Digi wash ISO Laudrometer

- Perspirometer

- Thermohygrometer.

-

Preliminary NABL Audit was completed, documentation work of all Quality Manuals is complete, and the system is being followed on the floor for last 3 months. It is planned to send a call for final NABL Assessment Audit by 25^th Aug,’05. It is expected that call will be followed by the actual Final Assessment Audit by NABL team sometimes in September,’05.

WRA-NCJD WORKSHOP

The workshop on “Design & Development of Jute Diversified Products” was organized by Wool Research Association, Thane in collaboration with National Centre for Jute Diversification, Kolkata from 28^th March to 1^st April, 2005. The technical aspects of jute based silk /wool/cotton/synthetic blended floor coverings/furnishings/handicrafts were discussed during this workshop. The participants from Mahila Arthik Vikas Mahamandal, Thane Region, NSD Industrial Home for the Blinds, other Govt. & R & D bodies took part in the workshop.

DISTINGUISHED VISITORS

Visit of Project Officer small-scale industries center, Satara

Under the Ruler Development Scheme, District Satara, the concerned authorities alongwith Project Officer Small scale industries, Satara visited WRA’s Woollen Spinning Pilot plant to understand the processing of Decanni wool in September 2004.

Visit of NIFD, Hyderabad Students

The students of National Institute of Design, Hyderabad visited WRA as a part of their partial fulfillment of their academic activities- educational tour on 4^th Sept., 2004. The batch of 30 students alongwith the staff members understood the WRA activities, services offered and infrastructure available.

Visit of Australian Delegation

Mr. Tom Drummond – Project Manager, Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), Australia, visited WRA on 12^th Sept., 2004 to understand the WRA’s present R&D projects. He also discussed many common R & D aspects of AWI & WRA. He understood the infrastructure of WRA.

Visit of AWI Delegation

Mr. Paul Comyn – Program Manager – Education & Adoption, AWI visited WRA on 24/1/2005 to understand the status of Wool Education in India & WRA’s representation in the same. He also understood the activities, services & educational courses offered by WRA.

NEW ARRIVALS AT LIBRARY

a. Directory of Apparel Exporters

b. Compendium of Textile Statistics – 2003 published of the Office of the Textile Commissioner

c. Textile Chemicals by Lacasse, K.S. Baumann, W

d. National Directory of Science Communicating Institutes –2004 by NCSC & NCSTC

For any information desired by anyone, following persons can be contacted :

As per the Act the following WRA staff have been designated to deal with the public queries as under :

a. Central Public Information Officer

Designated Person :

Mr. D.V. Kulkarni

Admn./Accounts Officer

Wool Research Association
Sandoz Baug
Thane - 400 607 (India)

Tel:+91-022-25314304/25314294

Fax:+91-022-25314305

email: wra@vsnl.com